Sunday, September 27, 2009

DAY 09 - 乌来, 野柳地质公园, 基隆

So sad, today is our last full day in Taiwan and tomorrow we will be heading home *cry*. We still have a few places to cover and on my list I have 乌来, 野柳 and 基隆. Out of these 3 places, 乌来 and 野柳 are the must-go places that I must cover for this Taiwan trip. 乌来 is a place of hotsprings and exotic aboriginal culture whereas 野柳 geopark - 野柳地质公园 is a great draw to me.

As we need to cover many places today hence we have to set off earlier than normal and I have to drag myself out of bed reluctantly. Looked out of the window and saw that it was raining, no wonder I slept like a pig today haha ..

The weather looked gloomy. Thick dark clouds and the drizzle went on and off according to its mood. But this did not dampen our spirits and we were both set to have a great day today .. =)

The first place on our itinerary is 乌来.

Direction to 乌来:
o http://wikitravel.org/en/Wulai
o Taipei Main Station → 新店站 → Upon exit, turn right → 新店客运 → 乌来总站 (last stop)
o View is better on the right side seats of the bus driver
o Duration of bus: ½ hr (every 15 - 20mins interval)
o Cost: NT$40

We had a little surprise when we alighted at 新店站. Upon exit from 新店站, turn left and you will see  碧潭 which is a nice and lush area with jade-green river and beautiful cliffs. A real treat to the eyes indeed. There are water boats for rental and it is definitely a great place for a fun family outing.

I have read about 碧潭 while doing my homework for this trip but it did not really register in my mind that 碧潭 is near 新店站. Nevertheless, schedule was tight for us today and hence we have to give 碧潭 a miss, and can only take a quick glimpse before we went in search for the bus to 乌来.

This is the 新店客运 that we took to 乌来.


Upon boarding the bus, grab the right seats of the bus driver as advised by most websites. Bet the view must be great and indeed, we were treated to refreshing scenary and the cool breeze after the drizzle rejuvenated our spirits. The view is different from that of 九份. 九份 is of mountainous and vast sea view whereas the road to 乌来 includes both mountain and gushing river views. Both have its own beauty and no matter what, they still beat the concrete charm of modern city.

After ½ hour, we reached 乌来总站 which is the last stop of the bus journey. Guess what? We saw a group of people sitting at the 总站 and they were having a mini picnic there while waiting for bus !!

Saw the crowd in orange t-shirts at the shelter? They seem to be having a great time and I hope they got their yummy food from 乌来老街 .. haha ..


We checked the bus schedule at the shelter and saw that there are direct buses to 中正纪念堂 (NT$64) and 台北 (NT$70). How convenient ..

After a short 5 mins walk from 乌来总站, we reached 乌来老街 which is a short street with all the famous local food lined up.

Once you see this road sign that indicates “乌来老街”(mounted on the lamp post), you know you are not far from this gourmet street.


Cross the bridge and 乌来老街 is just ahead .. yippee !!


乌来 is rich in its aboriginal culture. Needless to say, that will include aboriginal food as well. Some of 乌来 specialities are foods seasoned with the Aboriginal spice, maqaw (马告), wild boar meat (山豬), bamboo rice (竹筒饭), 山药, 的么面 and many many more.

Upon reaching 乌来老街, what greeted us were 2 big pigs’ heads. What a great way to welcome visitors haha .. The butcher was slicing meat off the pigs and we decided to finish exploring the street first before deciding what to eat.


Look at the cloudy grey sky and wet floor, today is not a day for outdoor activities and maybe that explained the scarce crowd on the street.

Despite the bad weather, it was still a joy to explore 乌来老街. 乌来 is becoming touristy and the locals clearly know the type of food that visitors seek for when they come to 乌来. Most of the hot favourites were lined up side by side and we did not have to spend much effort to source for them.


Even the popular 泰雅婆婆美食店 is highly visible and you will not miss it. It is located near the front of the street and its address is as below.

Address of 泰雅婆婆美食店:
o 14 乌来老街 (on the right after crossing the bridge)

泰雅婆婆美食店 is very famous for its aboriginal dishes and even Eugene’s Taiwanese colleague recommended this restaurant. This restaurant was packed with customers and the dishes smelt and looked good !! Shall check out this restaurant later.


At the end of 乌来老街, you will come across a second bridge. Cross it and you will come to 2 roads, 1 on the left and 1 on the right. The one on the left will lead you to all the 民宿 with exquisite facilities. Most 民宿 provide unlimited spa usage for their guests .. ooh .. looks good, I should have planned a day of stay here .. =(

On the right is the 温泉街 and I read from the web that there is a public hot spring here which is FREE to all. The word “FREE” is very alluring and no matter what, I must find it.

Before long, we found the public hot spring and to my horror, it is actually a river with hot spring minerals .. *disappointment* ..

Direction to the FREE public hot spring:
o End of 乌来老街→ Cross the bridge → turn right → river is on the right


This public hot spring is very popular among the locals and activity was bustling here. Be it young, old, men, women or kids, you can find them all by the river, all ready to have a dip. Some were even having picnic by the side. A really carefree way to spend a day.

Initially Eugene and I wanted so much to try the hot spring but it is far from our expectations and we decided to give it a miss. Guess pampered urbanites like us are too used to Japanese’s style of enclosed open hot springs and such hot spring in the wild is a bit overwhelming for us haha ..

Besides, the river is not very accessible and that deterred us further from having a dip.

For those of you who love being in the nature and do not mind dipping in the public hot spring, do remember to wear your swimsuit as unlike the Japanese, Taiwanese don their swimsuit while having a dip. Do not expose unnecessarily haha ..

If you are not keen in the 民宿 or 温泉街, head straight on and you will see a signboard indicating where to take the trolley train.


Take the flight of stairs and you will come to 乌来合车站, the Trolley Station.

It looked so quiet and I guess we were the first passengers today haha ..


Viola !! This is 乌来 cutesy trolley train. This trolley train is a very primitive form of transport and it used to be the only transport in 乌来. It is no longer in use today except to ferry tourists to and fro the train track.

Look at the seat capacity, you can only seat 2 persons at a time and I wonder how useful it was in the past .. =P


We told the trolley staff that we were keen to take a trolley ride and they told us politely to wait till there were more passengers.

After a while, the crowd started to pour in with a lot of kids and families who were as excited as us haha ..

The staff started to get prepared for the ride and ensure that all the safety measures were in place even though I did not foresee any danger that this mini trolley can cause. Nevertheless, safety is of top priority .. =)


Once all the checks were done, we were told to board the trolley. Eugene and I hopped on with excitement and looked forward to the short trolley ride like a kid.

We took a picture with the safety instructions pasted on the trolley. It instructed us to fasten the safety belt before the ride and not to stick our head and hands out of the trolley.


Yoo hoo !! After a while, the ride started and we were on the way to 乌来瀑布 !!

A lot of visitors to 乌来 mentioned about this waterfall and it raised my expectations that it must be very majestic and impressive. Can’t wait to take a picture in front of it.

Direction to 乌来瀑布:
o 乌来合车站 → 瀑布站→ Cable Car Terminal
o Duration: 1.6km (can walk for 20mins or take the Trolley Train)
o Cost: NT$50 (1-way)

Hmm, well this is the infamous 乌来瀑布. Perhaps, I have expected too much haha .. nevertheless, it is a natural waterfall afterall. Singapore does not even have a natural waterfall.


乌来瀑布 might look mediocre but there are other attractions beyond it, both at the top and below it.

At the top of the waterfall, there is a theme park called Dreamland which is a haven for the kids whereas the street below the waterfall will lead you to 乌来 Aboriginal Culture Village.

Direction to Dreamland:
o A theme park on the top of 乌来瀑布
o Take the Cable car at the Cable Car Terminal
o Cost: NT$180

Direction to 乌来 Aboriginal Culture Village:
o Below 乌来瀑布
o Operating Hours: 9am – 7pm
o Cost: NT$90

Both Dreamland and 乌来 Aboriginal Culture Village are not Eugene and my cup of tea and hence we left shortly after we took some pictures in front of the waterfall. No matter what, we must take a picture to show our friends that yes, we have been to the infamous 乌来瀑布 haha ..

As it is only 1.6km to 乌来老街, hence Eugene and I decided to take a stroll back instead of taking the trolley train.

We walked along the 情人步道, hand in hand, heart to heart haha ..

Along the way, there are drawings of aboriginal characters on the path which illustrate the aborigines’ accessories and dressings. Very interesting ..


Upon reaching 乌来老街, we saw a lot of people queuing up at a 原住民山豬香肠 stall and decided to give it a try. As the stall owner believed in delivering food fresh from the oven, hence I had to wait for about 5 minutes for him to barbecue the sausage on the spot.

Look at the FAT sausages, I hope it will be worth my wait .. *slurp* ..



While waiting, Eugene sneaked away and came back with a bowl of almond beancurd with sesame and it tasted really smooth and nice. It cost NT$50 and I can assure you that it tasted better than our popular Rxxxxx Beancurd haha ..

                                    

Finally, my sausage was ready and the first bite was HEAVEN !! ooh ..

It tasted really good and the meat was solid. It was not oily unlike normal sausages and the texture was great !! 嚼劲十足 and all these for NT$30 only. Good food do not necessarily have to come with a hefty price tag hehe ..

The sausage and almond beancurd really whetted our appetite and we decided to adjourn to 泰雅婆婆美食店 for lunch.

We looked around and realized Taiwanese like to eat 高丽菜 a lot and as the saying goes, when in Rome, do as the Roman does and we ordered a plate of  炒高丽菜 (NT$70) to try. We also ordered a plate of 馬告东坡肉 (NT$180) to try the 馬告 spice and not forgetting 乌来 specialty - 竹筒飯. Both Eugene and I are very adventurous with food and the 原味竹筒飯 (NT$50) is simply not enough to satisfy us and hence we ordered the 香菇竹筒飯 (NT$70) too.

After a short while, the food arrived and our stomachs were already growling like mad .. haha ..


In the foreground is 馬告东坡肉, the spice and seasoning smell really good and the fats simply melt in your mouth. But the sight of the fats turned me off and sorry to those who fancy lard, I actually scraped them off and ate the meat only. It was too sinful for me haha ..

In the background is the big pile of 炒高丽菜 which is tasty but VERY OILY. Gosh, I can feel the oil dripping from my mouth for every serving.


On the left is the fragrant 香菇竹筒飯, filled with mushrooms and pork. On the right is the 原味竹筒飯 which is plain with no fillings. Both taste like rice dumplings (肉粽) and I actually prefer Singapore’s 肉粽 as the rice is tastier.


With such wide spread of food, how could we go without any wine? Agree? Haha ..

We tried the 小米酒 (NT$50) which is nice and a bit sour. For someone who is not a good drinker like me, the 小米酒 actually tastes smooth and goes down my throat well. However, Eugene warned me not to drink too much as 小米酒 is actually quite strong. I stopped drinking after 2 sips if not the consequences would be dire should I get drunk. I do not want to miss my 野柳地质公园 haha ...

Since 小米酒 is not a good choice for me, I ordered the 山胡椒蜜茶 (NT$30; refill: NT$20) which is a concoction of peppermint and honey. We have never tried this before and I must say this is the best drink that we have ever tried. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED !! It is very refreshing and quench your thirst especially on a hot and humid day.

On the whole, lunch was very sumptuous and it cost us NT$450 only which is around S$20.45, quite reasonable ya ? =)

We were full to the brim and our stomachs were really bloated. But the glutton in me still hold my step when I saw the BIG and APPETIZING 芋头丸 (NT$80). This was introduced in a travel documentary show recently and this 芋头丸 left a deep impression in me. It is made of yam and pork and coated with breaded crumbs. Being a Teochew, as long as it is yam, I will give it a thumbs up hehe ..


I bought one to try and stuffed Eugene did not want to share this with me no matter how much I coaxed him. Took a bite and the filling was full of yam and pork! The breaded crumbs only formed a thin layer so NT$80 is actually very worth it.

But for the small eaters, do heed my warning and just get one will do. One is big enough to serve as a meal, really .. *burp* ..

Ok enough of good food and we rushed off to catch the 220pm 新店客运 back to 新店站. 新店客运 comes at every 15-20 mins interval and you will not want to miss it.

This trip to 乌来 is an eye-opener and for the first time, Eugene and I got in touch with Taiwan Aborginal Culture. 乌来 made it to my hot favourite list and it brightened up our day despite it was drizzling on and off the whole day. It is a peaceful small town, easy to navigate around and it has great food to offer. What's more can you ask for? =)

Should you wish to pop by 乌来, I would recommend the following itinerary:

1. Have a relaxing day of outing at 碧潭.
2. After which, proceed to 乌来 and stay overnight at the 民宿 and enjoy the unlimited spa usage.
3. Upon departure, take the direct bus to 中正纪念堂 for some history lesson haha ..

Finally, next on our list is the long-awaited 野柳地质公园 !! Yipee !!

野柳地质公园 is on the far eastern shore of Taiwan and to get there, we have to get back to Taipei Main Station.

More info on 野柳地质公园:
o http://www.ylgeopark.org.tw/
o Operating hours: 8am – 5pm (depending on seasons)
o Cost of Entrance: NT$50
o Beautiful rock formations eg. Queen’s Head, Fairy’s Shoe

Directions to 野柳地质公园:
Option 1: From Taipei
o Taipei Main Station → Exit 6 站前地下街 → 国道客运总站 → Booth 19 take the 国光客运 (bound for 金山→ 金青中心 ) → 野柳 Bus stop → turn right and walk along the junction for about 5 – 10mins → 野柳地质公园
o Operating hours: 540am – 11pm (Wkdays); 630am – 11pm (Wkends)
o Duration of Bus: 40 – 80 mins (every 20mins interval)
o Cost of Bus: NT$102 (1 way)

Option 2: From 淡水
o 淡水站→ take the express bus bound for 金山 → 野柳 Bus stop
o Operating hours: 550am – 1020pm (every 30mins interval)

We went for Option 1 and along the way, the traffic looked good. The sky started to clear up too and this was a good sign !!

I estimated that we will reach 野柳 by 5pm but I was so wrong. It ended up that the whole journey took 1 hr 20 mins (yes, it was a LONG journey) and we reached at 530pm. To make it worse, as we approached 野柳地质公园, it started to pour and the rain got heavier and heavier. My heart sank with the downpour .. =(

We saw a couple walking towards us and we confirmed the direction to 野柳地质公园 with them. Luckily we were heading towards the correct direction but the couple told us that 野柳地质公园 closed at 6pm between May and October! This came as a shock to me as I thought it closed at 630pm at this season !! For once, my travel research failed me *sob* ..

We dashed to 野柳地质公园 and the counter staff told us we only have ½ hour in the geopark. Sky started to turn dark by 545pm and the gloomy clouds and heavy rain made it worse. We had to do a quick tour before the staff chased us out.

野柳地质公园 has amazing rock formations which are caused by years of erosion. Among them, the most famous formation would be the Queen’s head. We would have come to 野柳 in vain if we did not take a picture of the Queen’s head and hence Eugene and I looked for it frantically. Finally we found it and I could only shoot a few pictures of it before we run for the exit.

The elegant Queen’s head looking on while we ran away from the rain ..


The turbulent waves off the coast, roaring winds in our ears and pouring rain over our heads hastened our pace and before we left, I could not resist and turn to take the pinkish sky over 野柳. Beautiful and surreal isn’t it ?? =)


Even though it was a hasty tour and I did not manage to see other formations such as The Fairy’s Shoe, 野柳地质公园 has deeply impressed me. Will definitely come back again ..

We strolled for a while at the fish market near the exit and bought some salmon floss. For your info, the salmon floss is very fresh and tasty and unlike pork floss, it does not leave a meaty taste in your mouth. A must-buy souvenir to bring back home.

The rain stopped shortly and we proceeded to our last destination of the day, 基隆.

基隆 is a small town and it used to be called “鸡笼”. As the name sound very crude, hence it was renamed to “基隆” meaning prosperity.

More info on 基隆:
o http://wikitravel.org/en/Keelung
o http://tour.klcg.gov.tw/english/index2.asp
o Small coastal town and can travel on foot; if you take bus, it costs NT$12 no matter the distance

Directions to 基隆:
Option 1: From 野柳
o 野柳 Bus stop → Cross the street in front of the convenience store → take 基隆客运 → 廟口 (ask the driver to tell u where to alight)
o Duration of Bus: 40 mins
o Cost of Bus: NT$45

Option 2: From Taipei
o Taipei Train Station → 基隆站 (last destination)
o Duration of Train: 40 mins (every 20mins interval); Last train: 1130pm
o Cost of Train: NT$43

Upon alighting from the bus, you will be welcomed by a large neon signboard “Keelung”.


基隆 famous night market, 基隆庙口, is within walking distance and you can easily find your way there.

Direction to 基隆庙口:
o http://www.miaokow.org/
o East of 基隆站, in the direction of the Keelung Harbor Bureau, near the 奠济宮

What differentiates 基隆庙口 from the other night markets is the rows and rows of yellow lanterns hanging above the stalls. These lanterns are the signature of 基隆 and you can see them in most travel publicity material.

基隆庙口 originated from a few stalls outside 奠济宮. The stalls got popular and began to draw crowds which resulted in more and more stalls to open in front of 奠济宮. As such, 基隆庙口 night market was formed and remained popular till today.

This is the majestic 奠济宮 and I wonder are these the first few stalls then haha ..

 
Another difference between 基隆庙口 and the other night markets is it specializes in seafood and the most popular dish is butter crabs. You can see almost all the tables have a few butter crabs wiped up. However, Eugene and I were too ‘dainty’ to use our hands and hence we decided to give it a miss. Each butter crab merely costs NT$150, quite a good buy.

Guess the rain has drained us of our energy or perhaps we have been to too many night markets in Taiwan, therefore we merely strolled through 基隆庙口 and covered it within an hour, without getting any snack.

As it was getting late, hence we decided to head back to our hotel to rest and pack our bags for tomorrow. Today has been a long day but we had great fun too.

*sigh* .. so sad, this is it .. the end of our holiday .. =(


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